Monday, July 15, 2013

Making Old Baseboards Look Pretty

There is something really satisfying about painting the walls of a room a fresh new color. Everything looks so clean! Unless, of course, you live in a 200-year-old house. That's when you lower your eyes and look at the stained, beat-up old baseboards and think, "Well, dang! Those look even worse now..."
Fixing up baseboards isn't too complicated. But it is a giant pain, mostly because they are ALL THROUGH THE HOUSE, and you have to sit on the floor and scoot around to do them. I've been tackling them one section at a time, which is much more manageable. I start at one end and then follow that particular baseboard around corners and whatnot until I get to a natural stopping point. And then I take a break, because I do, at some point, have to parent my children, and I don't feel like scooting around on the floor all day with a paintbrush!

But I digress.

What You Will Need:
  • White Paint (something durable and glossy)
  • Angled Trim Paintbrush (2" or 3")
  • Painter's Tape
  • White latex ("painter's") caulk
  • Caulk gun
  • Paint scraper
  • Wood filler (if there are holes to fill in)


STEP ONE: Prep the surface. Baseboards get pretty dirty! Take a soft, damp cloth and wipe them down really good. You may need to use the paint scraper to remove old paint drips that have dried, or who-knows-what-else that might be stuck on there. Get it nice and clean!

STEP TWO: Get that painter's tape out and tape off the top and bottom of the baseboard, so that you don't get paint on the wall or the floor! Go slowly, work carefully, and press the tape down firmly so that the paint can't leak underneath. Please note that if you did a bad job cleaning in Step 1, the tape won't stick very well. Don't say I didn't warn you! And yes, the reason I know this is because I've done this. More than once. :P
STEP THREE: Paint! This is the fun part. Follow the grain of the wood and apply nice, even coats. You'll probably have to do two coats. As soon as you think you've done enough coats, remove the painter's tape and let the baseboards dry.

STEP FOUR: This is the most complicated part, but it REALLY gives baseboards a "finished" appearance. If there is no visible gap/crack between the top of the baseboard and the wall, you can probably ignore this step. But chances are, there is EXACTLY such a crack. So read on! Get some painter's tape and tape JUST ABOVE the edge of the baseboard, on the wall. You should be able to see just a little sliver of the wall color between your tape and the baseboard. See all those little jagged pieces? They're going to disappear!
Now, cut the tip of the caulk at an angle, creating just a SMALL hole (bigger hole = lots more wasted caulk!). Use the caulk gun and squeeze a THIN line of caulk along the top ledge of your baseboard. You can view my expert technique in the following picture (haha!!). It doesn't have to be pretty. Obviously. :)
Next, use your finger and run it along the ledge to get the caulk nice and smooth (keep paper towels handy!). Remove the tape, and VOILA! Good as new!
It's really not so bad, until you imagine yourself doing this to thousands of feet of wall. ACK! But clean, crisp moulding makes a HUGE difference in a room, and it's a cheap thing to do! It's definitely worth the hassle!
P.S. The exact same techniques apply to fixing up door trim and crown moulding, too! Crown moulding is especially unpleasant, since you have to work with your arms constantly above your head. Maybe I'll post about that some day... Fun times!

19 comments:

  1. Looks great! Just a note to anyone who wants to try this - buy "paintable" caulk. The previous owners of our house used silicone caulk. I had to scrape it all off because the paint won't stick. Not fun!

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  2. DEFINITELY don't use silicone caulk (I did mention Painter's/Latex caulk in the supply list at the top!). Silicone caulk is just nasty stuff. It has its uses, but it smells terrible and doesn't wash off with regular soap and water. It's just gross. I avoid it whenever possible! :P

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  3. This was great! I can't wait to do this in my house :)

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  4. Great post! I love seeing people redo their homes but HATE when they ignore baseboards and door frames! Can't wait to do my second floor (ack!) with these tips! Also, don't do if you just got a manicure :D

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  5. Are the baseboards that you painted in this example originally painted with oil based paint and then you painted over with latex?

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    1. Great question! My official answer: I have no idea what they were originally painted with. They certainly could have been oil-based, though there are layers upon layers of paint there. What I can tell you is that I only use latex-based paint, and it's gone on fine and held up very well. Hope that helps! :)

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  6. Most paint stores will tell you it is fine to paint latex over oil based paint...but two things 1. Sand the baseboard first to help the new paint stick to the old paint and 2. Oil based does look better, but it is pricy and smelly and takes a long time to dry.

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  7. We are wanting to restain our wood trim. What would u recommend using to fill in around wall & baseboard?

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    1. I've honestly never dealt with this! But it seems like you might be able to use wood filler and then stain it to match? I am honestly not sure!

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  8. Problem... all my baseboards / trim are in Navajo white (beige). Probably can't use white caulk, right?

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    1. Probably not. But caulk does also come in other colors (like "almond"). You could always caulk and then paint... the paint just doesn't make as crisp of a line as the caulk does. Good luck!

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  9. is there a way you can cover old baseboards (mine are beyond fixing trust me) with new ones??

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    1. In your case, I'd probably just rip out the old ones and install new ones. It really isn't that hard to do! I don't know that there is any product out there that just goes over existing baseboards. If there is one, it's probably more expensive than just putting in new ones!

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  10. So easy, love the fresh clean look.

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  11. If you cut the caulk tube tip at an angle there is much less mess and usually no "fixing" required!

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    1. LOL I always cut it at an angle, and there is always fixing required. You must have a steadier hand than I do! :)

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  12. I think I'm missing something. You applied the caulk after painting? It appears that your wall paint meets your baseboards very evenly in the final picture so, did you repaint your wall color down to your baseboards after caulking? Where did the "little jagged pieces" go?

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    1. MollyO-- when I taped it off, I did it slightly *above* the top edge of the baseboard and caulked from there down... the caulk covered the little jagged pieces, and the tape gave it a nice clean line (a few millimeters above the actual edge of the board). Hope that helps clear it up!

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  13. If you tape then use paintable clear caulk over the gap AND slightly over the tape, you paint over baseboards and gap with whatever color you are painting. It gives you a clean line and the caulk acts as a barrier so the paint doesn't seep under the tape. I have used this technique on accent walls in my house and people always ask if a professional painted.

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